Tibet
Name: Tibet
Chinese name: 西藏自治區 (Xīzàng Zìzhìqū)
Status: Autonomous Region
Capital: Lhasa
Population: 3,120,400 inhabitants (2013)
Area: 1,228,400 km²
Tibet is a highly controversial autonomous region of Chine. Known for its high plateaus, its Himalayan mountain range, and its fascinating landscapes, Tibet also emerges as a region with a strong and independent cultural identity. Despite regular conflicts and numerous controls and restrictions, Tibet is a region worth discovering without hesitation. For mountain trekking enthusiasts and nature lovers, Tibet will undoubtedly be a revelation.
History
The earliest written records on Tibet's history date back to the seventh century, an era when Tibetan armies represented a scourge to neighboring countries comparable to that of the Huns in Europe. Under the reign of King Songtsen Gampo, the Tibetans occupied Nepal and levied taxes on several regions of present-day Yunnan.
Shortly after Gampo's death, Tibetan armies moved north and took control of the Silk Road, notably occupying the great city of Kashgar. Confronted with resistance from Chinese troops of the Tang Dynasty, deployed throughout Xinjiang, they sacked the imperial city of Chang'an.
In 842, Tibetan expansion came to an abrupt halt following the king's assassination, and the country fractured into small independent principalities. Tibetan armies were never to leave the high plateau again.
As secular power declined, the authority of the Buddhist clergy strengthened. When Buddhism entered Tibet in the third century, it was confronted with the traditional animist religion, Bön. Buddhism adopted many of its rituals, which, combined with esoteric practices of tantric Buddhism imported from India, gave rise to Tibetan Buddhism.
From the seventh century onward, this religion took root in Tibet, and from the ninth century, monasteries acquired genuine political authority. Thus, in 1641, the Gelugpa (Yellow Hats) capitalized on their alliance with Buddhist Mongols to crush their rivals, the Sakyapa (Red Hats). The high priest of the Yellow Hats received from the Mongols the title of Dalai Lama (ocean of wisdom). Religion and politics became intimately intertwined under his authority. Each Dalai Lama being considered the reincarnation of his predecessor, monks traveled the country seeking the child bearing the signs of the deceased spirit's reincarnation.
At the fall of the Qing Dynasty in 1911, Tibet experienced a period of independence. It lasted until 1950, when Chine invaded the country and secured its hold over this strategically important plateau. This invasion was called a "liberation" by the People's Republic of Chine.
At this point, viewpoints diverge radically: each has its own interpretation of history. Chine positioned itself as the "liberator of Tibet," freeing it from feudal servitude and returning it to its motherland, of which it had always been a part, a claim that Tibet naturally contested.
Beyond liberating the people, Chine boasted of bringing modernization and hope to this region plagued by poverty. Yet this did not prevent the gradual rise of popular unrest leading to the outbreak of revolt in 1959, which was violently crushed by the People's Liberation Army (PLA), causing the deaths of tens of thousands of people in 1960. The Dalai Lama, alerted by rumors of a Chinese plot to capture him, fled to India and was followed by other spiritual leaders; he is today the representative of over 100,000 Tibetans in exile. Following this uprising, the Chinese ruled Tibet with an iron fist, imprisoning and executing thousands of people. During the Great Leap Forward, Tibet suffered even more from famine than the rest of Chine, and during the Cultural Revolution, its heritage was further devastated.
The Dalai Lama, who has described Chinese policy as "cultural genocide," continues to be revered by his people, and the Nobel Peace Prize he received in 1989 testified to a renewed Western interest in the Tibetan cause. Unfortunately, Chine's economic potential has led Western leaders to shy away from broaching the Tibet question with their Chinese counterparts. The Dalai Lama himself has now resigned himself to demanding autonomy rather than independence.
The Chinese do not truly understand the Tibetans' ingratitude toward them, and they are not entirely without reason. Beneath its paradisiacal image, pre-1950 Tibet was a country of appalling poverty ruled by an elite apparently little concerned with improving the people's living conditions, according to feudal principles scarcely different from slavery. Chine developed roads, schools, hospitals, an airport, factories, and a promising nascent tourism industry. The "Develop the West!" campaign currently pursued by Beijing is not unlike the "Go West" motto launched by America for its conquest of the American West, resulting in increased Han migration to sparsely populated western provinces.
Many Tibetans, who cannot forgive the destruction of their monasteries, the suppression of their culture, and the permanent presence of the military and police, see things differently. There remains the question of how Tibetans can preserve their culture if immigration increases, encouraged by the opening in 2006 of the railway line connecting Lhasa to the rest of Chine.
Today
Tibet, perched on a vast plateau between 4,000 m and 5,000 m altitude, is an exceptional land. At the mere mention of "Tibet" emerge images of endless skies of extraordinary luminosity, nomads on horseback, majestic temples, monks in crimson, orange, or saffron robes, and prayer flags entrusting sacred mantras to the wind… With an area equal to twice France's size, the autonomous region is home to only 2.7 million inhabitants. Long forbidden to outsiders, Tibet exercises an ever-growing fascination on the Western imagination.
Yet the thorny problem of relations with Chine remains. Some believe that opportunistic Han are "destroying" Tibet, while others judge that they literally liberated the region from slavery. Regardless of one's opinion, it must be acknowledged that Chinese domination increasingly asserts itself in Tibet.
Another reality is clear: the harshness of living conditions in this environment and the endless persecutions they endure have forged the determination of the Tibetan people. With remarkable resilience, they continue to preserve not only their culture and religion, but also their joy of life, rooted in their deep spirituality.
The verdant Yarlung Tsangpo Valley is the soul of Tibet. In western Tibet, at an even higher altitude, rises Mount Kailash, whose spiritual value is immeasurable; it is near this sacred peak that the Indus, Sutlej, and Brahmaputra rivers originate
Climate
Most of Tibet consists of a desert plateau exceeding 4,000 m altitude, with numerous passes rising above 5,000 m.
Summer (June to September) brings warm, sunny, and dry days, though rainfall is possible in the south, and temperatures drop rapidly once night falls.
Winter, meanwhile, is rigorous and can reach very cold temperatures in January. Winter is heavily snowed and blocks many roads and access outside of Lhasa.
The best period to visit Tibet varies by region, with May, June, and October generally being the finest months.
Warm clothing and basic trekking gear can be purchased in Lhasa; however, we recommend bringing sunscreen, lip balm, deodorant, water purifier, and medications. Travelers should pay special attention to altitude sickness, which can affect anyone during trekking and climbing.
How to Get There?
Although five main routes lead to Lhasa, foreign travelers can officially reach it only via Nepal or Chine.
By Air
No air connections exist between Tibet and the rest of the world except for Nepal and Chine.
Lhasa is served by several flights from the city of Chengdu in Sichuan, Kunming in Yunnan, and from Beijing.
If you are traveling in Nepal and wish to continue to Tibet quickly, Kathmandu offers flights to Lhasa.
Lhasa's Gongkar Airport is located 40 km from the capital. Once you disembark, you'll need to take a bus or taxi to reach the city center.
Air travel is not the most economical means of transport but saves time if you're pressed for it.
By Train
Inaugurated in 2006, the Qing-Zang railway line connecting the city of Golmud in Qinghai to Lhasa in Tibet offers today a good modern alternative to the overnight bus.
The route, spanning 1,142 km, crosses the Tibetan plateau, wild, arid, and virtually uninhabited. It climbs to 5,068 m altitude at the Tanggula Pass, making it the world's highest railway line.
The risk of altitude sickness can affect passengers; it's best to bring medications to navigate this stage without difficulty.
Keep in mind that obtaining train tickets to Lhasa is more difficult than departing from Lhasa. It may be preferable to fly to the Tibetan capital and return to Chine by train if you wish to experience this journey. In any case, tickets are obtained with the help of a travel agency.
Departures now exist from Chengdu and Beijing.
Travel time can range from 15 to 36 hours.
By Bus
Between Lhasa and the provinces of Sichuan, Yunnan, and Xinjiang exist very remote roads at very high altitudes. These heavily controlled roads can only be traveled if you journey in a group with an organized tour and possess the required permit.
Bus tickets will be issued by travel agencies. The permit must be presented.
Getting to Tibet via Nepal
The spectacular Friendship Highway (920 km) connecting Lhasa to Kathmandu crosses Tibetan passes and plateau, culminating at the Gyatso-la Pass (5,220 m), near Lhatse. The terrain's irregularities, once making the road dangerous, are now merely a distant memory. Today, it's possible to appreciate the grandeur of the landscapes in complete tranquility.
The most common approach consists of renting a 4x4 with driver from a Lhasa travel agency. Prices vary depending on the agency, driver, number of people, and itinerary. The route can be completed in 5 days from Lhasa to the Nepalese border via Shigatse, Everest Base Camp, and Tingri. If you have time, taking a bus is an option. Public transport stops at Shegar, also called New Tingri, and occasional buses run from Shigatse to Zhangmu.
To travel from Nepal to Lhasa, foreigners must organize transport and permits with Kathmandu tour operators. Be vigilant in your choice, as the majority of complaints about Tibet relate to Kathmandu travel agencies.
And above all, coming from Nepal, do not underestimate the risks associated with rapid altitude changes: altitude sickness is frequent.
Buses depart from the Tibet Bus Station (Xizang Lu) at 3 PM and take between 20 and 25 hours (or even 30), depending on weather conditions, traffic, and engine condition. Another option is to hang around the regular bus station to arrange something with one of the drivers.
Bring provisions and warm clothing. Temperature can easily drop below -10°C, or worse, when crossing these mountain passes at night. Even if buses are heated, if the heating breaks down, you risk serious problems if you're not properly equipped. Keep an eye on your belongings. Some travelers buy oxygen canisters (30 Y) at the CITS office or arrive with specific medications available only on prescription.
In Lhasa, you can, however, buy a ticket for Golmud or Xining.
Things can change considerably from day to day in Tibet; it's wise to always make inquiries beforehand before undertaking the process to get there.
How to Get Around Tibet?
It is recommended to travel by 4x4. Public buses are not advised, and you'll have difficulty purchasing a ticket anyway.
Those wishing to try cycling should know it's quite expensive since you'll still need a guide. Cycling can be very dangerous if you're not prepared. Winding roads and temperatures can sometimes be fatal.
Entry Requirements for Tibet
To enter Tibet, you must possess a Chinese visa, a travel permit, and follow an itinerary defined jointly with an agency. You must be in a group, but one person can constitute a group on their own. They will in any case be accompanied by a guide and driver. However, if there are multiple people in a group, they must also be of the same nationality.
A Chinese visa will be required to enter Chine. The entry permit can be issued to you by an authorized travel agency or by the Tibetan tourism office.
Depending on which areas you wish to explore, you may be asked for a travel permit or a military permit, which can also be issued by a travel agency.
Entry procedures evolve constantly; it is important to make inquiries beforehand.
What to Do in Tibet?
- Admire the grandeur of the famous Potala Palace in Lhasa.
- Purify your soul before Namtso Lake, considered one of the most beautiful natural sites in the Tibet region.
- Watch the sunrise over Mount Everest from Rongbuk Monastery.
- Travel the Friendship Highway between Lhasa and Kathmandu and discover the high passes of the Tibetan plateau.
- Wander through Gyantsé Dzong Monastery and enjoy panoramic views over the valley and fortified city.
- Follow pilgrims to Mount Kailash and pause before the magnificent panorama offered by Manasarovar Lake
