Fenghuang or the City of the Phoenix
Despite our chaotic arrival the day before, we are determined to make the most of our stay and uncover what this city has to offer.
Despite our chaotic arrival the day before, we are determined to make the most of our stay and uncover what this city has to offer.
In Search of a Guesthouse
Despite the relatively quiet night we've just spent, we decide to set out in search of another guesthouse for the rest of our stay. Off we go again, wandering through the ultra-narrow and crowded alleyways of Fenghuang, our suitcases in tow.
Once again, we face a few refusals from several guesthouses that are fully booked—the task proves challenging. But turning down a side street, we stumble upon a real gem: a beautiful guest house with quite comfortable rooms. The icing on the cake? The owner is tech-savvy and uses Google Translate to facilitate communication. What follows is a good half-hour of lively conversation and skilled negotiation, ending with us renting a chalet-style room. Unfortunately, we didn't think to remember the guesthouse's name or take photos inside. You can nonetheless admire this pleasant view:
Fenghuang, the Phoenix City
The afternoon is naturally devoted to exploring the city, which is far more pleasant to visit in daylight.
The residents of Fenghuang, mostly Miao people, use all their charm to sell us everything and anything. In a previous article we mentioned skewers of all kinds; we now discover hand-crafted ginger candies, made before our eyes.
We discover here the full picturesque charm of this city as described in guidebooks. The medieval character reveals itself in the ramparts and watchtowers, reminiscent of a miniature version of Carcassonne in some ways.
Some artists are keenly aware of the beauty (ephemeral though it may be) of this place, and we're delighted to admire their work, stationed along the riverbanks. 
On the other side, women wash their laundry the old-fashioned way, watched by tourists paddling up the Tuo Jiang in boats.
The city is also home to numerous monuments, mostly temples, whose condition unfortunately deteriorates at an alarming rate. This is once again due to rampant tourism, in a city where bars and nightclubs increasingly encroach on the serenity of residents. The magnificent Hong Bridge is a striking example. It rises proudly above the river and is open to the public for crossing from one bank to the other. We won't mention the fact that it houses countless souvenir shops...
Yet the charm and poetry take hold, and we delight in admiring the city at its most beautiful...
As night falls, we're accosted by a horde of photographers offering to take our picture in traditional costume. Initially skeptical, we eventually give in to this photo shoot that lasts more than a quarter-hour, for the modest sum of 10 yuan.
Kitschy to the max...
Around Fenghuang
The next day's program is quite different, as our host suggests we spend a day outside Fenghuang. On the agenda: a visit to a small village, followed by a rafting session on the Mengdong River, and finishing with a show in another typical village as dessert. A coach awaits us at the edge of town, soon joined by other young people seeking thrills.
The journey seems endless, but we make the most of it admiring the rural landscapes that unfold before us. It's quite a bumpy ride!
The afternoon begins with a visit to a market, far less disturbing than the one in Yangshuo, where various animal species and goods of all kinds mingle.
Next we head to the famous river for our rafting session. An unforgettable moment, though we weren't able to capture it on film due to our camera's lack of waterproofing. But do enjoy this small snapshot taken after the descent. 
We were promised an impressive view of the waterfalls, and we were not disappointed. The rest of the day takes us to a sort of small cove accessible after a long descent of stairs, and which proves absolutely stunning.
Once again we have the chance to sail on the water using makeshift rafts, and can observe anew the playful temperament of our Chinese friends.
We eventually get back on the road toward another village, where we're scheduled to attend a spectacular show. This is a truly remote settlement, clearly banking on tourism for additional income. The show itself is just a succession of poorly synchronized dances and activities for the children... But we appreciate the effort.
Thus ends our brief stay in Fenghuang, which after a chaotic beginning has left us with truly fond memories. We're curious to see how the city will continue to evolve over the next decade, hoping that measures will be taken to preserve this exceptional architectural heritage.
Next stop, still in Hunan: the city of Zhangjiajie! To view the photos related to this article, don't hesitate to visit the gallery of Fenghuang.
Frequently asked questions
Fenghuang is accessible from Changsha by bus (approximately 5-6 hours) or via the nearest Jishou train station. From Zhangjiajie, a direct bus connects the two cities in a few hours through Hunan's landscapes. It is advisable to book in advance, especially during high season.
Yes, the old city of Fenghuang charges an entrance fee that provides access to major historical monuments, including the Hong Bridge and watchtowers. The price may have changed since our visit in 2012: check with local tourism offices for current rates.
Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are the best seasons to visit Fenghuang: temperatures are mild and crowds are smaller than in summer. Winter (as during our January visit) offers a more authentic atmosphere but some activities like rafting may be unavailable.
Yes, a day excursion allows you to raft on the Mengdong River, a few hours from Fenghuang by coach. The excursion typically includes a visit to a local market and a traditional village. Contact your accommodation to organize this outing.
Fenghuang is a very touristy destination where some merchants and accommodation owners use translation tools (like Google Translate) to communicate. Outside the tourist areas, the language barrier can be significant. It's advisable to have a few basic Mandarin phrases or an offline translation app.
Among the sites not to miss: the Hong Bridge spanning the Tuo Jiang River, the medieval ramparts and watchtowers that recall the city's fortified character, the traditional stilt houses along the water, and the temples in the old city. A boat ride on the Tuo Jiang also offers a unique perspective on traditional architecture.
