Yangjiang, a beach escape in Chine
Travel articles are back! Last June we had the chance to escape Guangzhou for a weekend and enjoy the sunshine by the sea.
Travel articles are back! Last June we had the chance to escape Guangzhou for a weekend and enjoy the sunshine by the sea. Wait, what? There are beaches in Chine? Well yes, and even pretty nice ones at that!
People living in Canton know that June temperatures become quite oppressive, with significant humidity to boot... So when Chinese friends told us about a small coastal resort south of Guangzhou, we didn't hesitate to seize the opportunity.
The place in question is called Yangjiang, a small town of 3 million inhabitants located in southern Guangdong... The town itself obviously has little to offer, but being located by the sea it offers a few beaches and still well-preserved spots. Our choice fell on Moon Bay in the Yangxi district!
Departure is from Haizhu Square metro station on line 2, and we notice a huge number of buses at the departure point—it takes us a good fifteen minutes to find ours. Off we go for 3.5 hours of driving interrupted by several stops, the Chinese being fond of highway shopping. We arrive around noon in the small seaside town, the buses unload passengers who are immediately approached by restaurant owners hoping to make their weekly earnings...
Here, there's no point asking for beef or pork—all restaurants serve much the same menus: shrimp, shellfish, sea snails, fish... lovers of seafood will be in heaven! Everyone else... you can fall back on rice!
You notice the town is in full transformation, but the charm is definitely still there. A quick stop at the Aegean Hotel where we'll spend the night is in order to drop off our bags—a hotel also under construction, as evidenced by the external stairs providing access to the room.
Yet luck is on our side this time—our room key card, quite decent otherwise, stops working, forcing the staff to lodge us in the finest suite of the hotel with a sea view! If you're used to following our travel in Chine on this blog, you know about the troubles we usually encounter with guesthouses... It seems the wheel of fortune turns in our favor!
It's finally time to discover whether the beach lives up to our expectations—it's 2 PM and the sun is beating down. First surprise upon arrival: the beach is pay-to-enter! A small toll booth with security gates allows you to pay 15 yuan per person (around €2). For the cunning ones trying to sneak in, about a dozen guards keep watch all along the causeway... We even witnessed a chase between 3 young people and a patrol officer over a good hundred meters—epic stuff!
Far from a Thai or Malaysian beach, but the place certainly has its merits, spoiled though by the scaffolding and construction buildings in the surrounding area.
We really expected the worst with Chinese beaches, but it turns out there are far fewer crowds than expected (compared to Shenzhen photos...). That said, most Chinese people don't particularly appreciate the sun and avoid exposure during the hottest hours... The rare exceptions don't hesitate to swim in trousers and t-shirts, or simply enjoy a beach stroll.
It's late afternoon when tourists emerge from their hideaways and come enjoy the waves. For us, this sunny respite far from ambient pollution did us a world of good!
As darkness falls, the empty streets give way to a giant market enriched with multiple entertainments. You find all the region's specialties, starting with sweet potato with shredded coconut (no idea of the Chinese name, sorry!).
We also have the feeling of being the only laowai (meaning "foreigners") around, as all eyes turn toward us as the evening progresses. A pleasant sensation we hadn't experienced since Fenghuang!
On the public beach, fireworks follow one another and the launching of sky lanterns, common in Southeast Asia, soon fill the starlit sky. These are made of rice paper and rise into the air thanks to the flame that heats the air contained in the lantern.
An evening continuing the day spent at the beach: pleasant and restful... Departure for Guangzhou is scheduled for 1 PM the next day, allowing us to enjoy the empty beach in the early morning for a few more hours.
This June 2012 weekend ultimately cost us just over 200 yuan per person (transport and accommodation included). We thus recommend this destination if you're in the region. However, the place may fall victim to its own success and soon face the hordes of vacationers, as evidenced by construction going on everywhere and projects highlighted on the city's website. Things evolve very quickly in Chine, and it's quite likely that Yangjiang won't escape the rule.
The joys of mass tourism...
Frequently asked questions
From Guangzhou, take the bus from Haizhu Square metro station (line 2). The journey takes approximately 3.5 hours with several stops. Regular buses serve Yangjiang, particularly the Yangxi district where Moon Bay beach is located.
Yes, Moon Bay beach in the Yangxi district is pay-to-enter. The entrance fee was 15 yuan per person (around €2) at the time of our visit in 2012. Security agents ensure this rule is respected throughout the perimeter.
Budget approximately 200 yuan per person for a Yangjiang weekend, including transport and accommodation. It's an accessible and economical destination to escape Guangzhou for a weekend.
Moon Bay beach, located in the Yangxi district, is one of the most recommended in the Yangjiang area. It offers a relatively preserved setting with sand and waves, ideal for a beach stay away from the highly crowded beaches of Shenzhen.
Yangjiang is renowned for its seafood. Waterfront restaurants offer shrimp, shellfish, sea snails and fresh fish at affordable prices. The night market is also a must to taste local specialties, such as sweet potato with shredded coconut.
Yangjiang remains a destination rarely visited by foreign tourists (called 'laowai'), which gives it authentic charm. Language can be a barrier as few residents speak English, but the welcome is generally warm and curious.




















