Xizhou is an ancient Bai village situated on the western shore of Erhai Lake, about twenty kilometers north of Dali. Its cobblestone lanes, traditional Bai courtyard architecture, and morning market make it an authentic halt, far removed from the bustle of Dali's old town. The village remains home to Bai families, some of whom continue the tradition of indigo batik dyeing and pu-erh tea commerce.

Quick practical guide

• Access: minibus or taxi from Dali bus station or from Xiaguan (Dali new town); the road hugs Erhai Lake.
• Recommended duration: two to three hours to wander the lanes and market; half a day if combined with the lake shores.
• Market: Xizhou's morning market is liveliest early in the morning; it takes place in and around the central square (Sifang Jie).
• Dress code: no particular restrictions; wear comfortable shoes for the cobblestones.

What to see

The heart of the village revolves around Sifang Jie, a central square lined with Bai houses featuring whitewashed facades adorned with painted friezes. The interior courtyards — known as san fang yi zhao bi (three wings and a screen wall) — reveal manicured gardens, carved doors, and characteristic grey tiles. Several historic merchant residences from the 19th century are partially open to visitors.

History and context

Xizhou flourished as a Bai trading hub under the Ming and Qing dynasties. Merchant families — notably the Yan — built imposing residences through the salt, tea, and copper trade. The village has retained much of its historic urban fabric, earning it status as a protected ancient village in Yunnan.

Highlights of your visit

The Yan Family Compound

This 19th-century merchant residence is among the best preserved in the village. Its four successive courtyards showcase Bai architecture at its most refined: lacquered woodwork, whitewashed walls, and stone basins.

The morning market

At dawn, residents from surrounding villages converge on the central square. Local vegetables, Bai cheese (rubing), rice cakes, and medicinal herbs mingle together. It is one of the most vibrant rural markets in the Dali region.

Indigo batik workshops

A few Bai artisans maintain the tradition of zharan, cold-wax dyeing on cotton. Some workshops welcome visitors and offer short introductions.

The shores of Erhai Lake

Minutes on foot or by bike away, the banks of Erhai Lake offer unobstructed views toward the Cangshan mountains. The lake is protected; tourism navigation has been regulated for several years.

Photography tips

Morning light is ideal for photographing white facades before the lanes come alive. The courtyards of historic residences are better lit mid-morning. For the market, arrive early: activity drops sharply after 9 a.m. Always ask residents' permission before photographing them.

Location and access

Xizhou lies on the western shore of Erhai Lake, in the Bai autonomous prefecture of Dali, Yunnan. Dali's old town is roughly 20 km to the south. The city of Xiaguan (high-speed rail station and Dali airport) is about thirty kilometers away. Regular minibuses connect Xizhou to Dali old town and Xiaguan. The village is walkable from the local bus depot; central lanes are not accessible by car.

Nearby attractions

• Dali old town — historic Bai center with Renmin Lu street, city walls, and craft markets.
• Chongsheng Three Pagodas — 9th-century Buddhist complex and emblem of the Dali region.
• Erhai Lake — Yunnan's second largest lake, bordered by Bai villages and rice paddies.
• Shaxi — former relay station on the Tea and Horse Road, about 90 km north, remarkably well preserved.