Houhai Lake
Houhai Lake
Houhai is the rear lake of the historic Shichahai district in Beijing. Surrounded by hutongs, weeping willows and bars, it offers an authentic glimpse of Beijing life, from tranquil mornings to lively evenings.
Houhai is one of three lakes in the historic Shichahai district, northwest of central Beijing. Ringed by preserved hutongs, weeping willows and bustling bars, this body of water embodies the capital's duality: authentic neighbourhood life by morning, vibrant energy by night. It's where Beijingers come to ice-skate in winter, paddle in summer, and where visitors grasp the city's true rhythm.
Quick facts
- Access: Metro Line 6, Beihai North station (北海北), or Line 8, Shichahai station — a few minutes' walk.
- Entry: walking around the lake is free; certain activities (boats, paddle boats) are paid.
- Recommended duration: 2 to 3 hours for a full loop and exploration of adjacent hutongs.
- Dress code: no particular restrictions.
- Accessibility: main waterfront paths are accessible, but hutong alleys are often narrow and cobbled.
What you'll see
Houhai Lake spans roughly 34 hectares. Its banks blend traditional grey-brick residences, converted former palaces and bar terraces. To the northwest, Beihai Park and its neighbouring lake extend the walk. Century-old willows line the paths; fishermen settle in early morning, oblivious to the bustle that will follow later.
History and context
Shichahai — "ten temples by the lake" — is a lake complex carved during the Jin dynasty (12th century) and developed under the Yuan and Ming. Houhai, the "rear lake," formed with Qianhai and Xihai a hydraulic network linked to the Imperial Grand Canal. Dignitaries and princes built their residences here; the Prince Gong's Palace (Gong Wang Fu), one of Beijing's best-preserved, stands just steps away.
Highlights of your visit
A walk or cycle around the lake
The path circling Houhai runs past half-open courtyards, street food stalls and artisan workshops. Early morning brings tai-chi practitioners to the banks. This is the best time to observe neighbourhood life without the tourist crowds.
The Shichahai hutongs
The alleys radiating around the lake count among Beijing's best-preserved hutongs. Yandai Xiejie, a commercial cobbled street, leads directly to the water's edge. Rickshaws offer guided tours of the district.
Prince Gong's Palace
Minutes away on foot, this late-Qing palace houses gardens, pavilions and an artificial grotto. It's often linked to the classical novel The Dream of the Red Chamber. Admission is separate from the lake.
Evening energy
As dusk falls, bars and restaurants lining the waterfront come alive. The mood is festive, sometimes lively — very different from morning's calm. Terraces over the water are quintessential to the neighbourhood.
Photography tips
Golden sunrise light on willows and grey-tiled roofs is most beautiful. In winter, if the lake is frozen with skaters on it, the angle from Yinding Bridge (Silver Bridge) offers a classic frame with the Bell Tower in the background. Avoid midday in summer: harsh light and dense crowds.
Location and access
Houhai sits in Xicheng District, roughly 2 km north of the Forbidden City. Metro remains simplest. The neighbourhood is also reachable from Beihai Park by a short walk north. Bike-sharing schemes (Meituan, Hello Bike) are plentiful in the area and handy for waterfront rides.
Nearby attractions
- Prince Gong's Palace — Beijing's largest surviving princely residence, with its maze-like gardens.
- Beihai Park — Former imperial garden with its lake and the celebrated White Pagoda on Qionghua Island.
- Forbidden City — The Ming and Qing imperial palace, less than 2 km south.
- Nanluoguxiang — Bustling commercial alley in the hutongs, east of Shichahai.
- Drum Tower and Bell Tower — Two Ming towers that marked time for the city, visible from the lake.
Frequently asked questions
Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) offer pleasant weather and favourable light. In winter, the frozen lake welcomes skaters — a quintessentially Beijing experience. Summer is warm and busy, but evening energy peaks.
Yes, boats and paddle boats are available to rent on the waterfront during warm months. It's a pleasant way to view the neighbourhood from the water.
Walking around the lake is entirely free. Only certain activities (boats, rickshaws, Prince Gong's Palace entry) are paid.
A well-paced day might pair the Forbidden City in the morning, Beihai Park in early afternoon, then Houhai and its hutongs from late afternoon through evening. Everything connects on foot or by bike.
Photographing the waterfront and lake is free. In the hutongs, respect residents' privacy when their courtyards open directly onto the alley.
Yes. Bike rides, boats and winter skating appeal to families. Cobbled alleys can be tricky with pushchairs, though.
Photos
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